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| BUILDING THE EAGLE -- CONSTRUCTING FRAMES | ||
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Moderators: Winston, Gene_Bodnar, jstaudt
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| Author | Post | ||
| Winston |
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   Registered Member #1 Joined: Sun Jun 15 2008, 05:05AMPosts: 331 | Gene, I'm about ready to start cutting out my frames and I have a couple of questions. 1. I'm going to cut some 3/16" billets. Do you have any suggestions for their width? and... 2. About how many feet of stock roughly do you think are required for the frames? I plan on cutting enough stock in one sitting so I want to make sure I have enough. Unfortunately I'll have to cut these in an unheated garage due to the noise of the table saw. My band saw however is much quieter so I'll be able to move that in a nice warm area. I printed out all my frames tonight and had my framing jig on the table sizing things up. Too bad I have to wait until morning before I can start cutting! Winston :-)
[ Edited Fri Jan 30 2009, 07:58PM ] | ||
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| Gene_Bodnar |
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Gene_Bodnar  Registered Member #3 Joined: Sun Jun 15 2008, 11:43AMPosts: 287 | Hello Winston, I used an average of one foot of 2" wide lattice pine per frame -- a total of about 60 lengths, perhaps a little more for a few I scrapped along the way. The 2" width was generally wider than necessary for most of the frames, however, but I used it because it was already pre-cut to that width. An inch and a half width is more than sufficient. It appears that you and I are the only builders of the Eagle. Many folks think they're going to learn something by merely observing the build, but it has been my experience that the only way to truly learn to build a POF is by building it yourself. Gene | ||
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| Winston |
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| Registered Member #1 Joined: Sun Jun 15 2008, 05:05AMPosts: 331 | Thanks Gene. Once I get the little lady (the baby) straightened away with her breakfast, I'm off to the garage to make some room and start cutting!  I couldn't agree more, there's no better way to learn than to do. This is an excellent project, especially for novices like myself to start learning POF building. It doesn't have all the intricacies that say a 74 Gun Ship would have that tend to discourage the builder from finishing a project. From my perspective this project is actually something I can accomplish with my limited skills. There are a few others that are building as well. They had started a build log, however I suspect they stopped posting to it because uploading their pictures while a simple process did involve too many steps the way it was set up. Thus the reason I moved the build logs right into the forum area. Hopefully they'll start posting again regardless of where they are in their build. Winston | ||
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| longboat |
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 Registered Member #59 Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 04:02PMPosts: 34 | Hi Gene, I have two questions ? Earlier, you had a comment from another builder, regarding completing the staining and "finishing" of the frames, prior to glueing/pegging them to the keel. I am building with Cherry wood w/Danish oil finish and had the same concern. One question I had was, how well will the adhesive hold to the parts, after they have been "pre-finished". I made a test sample, after preparing them (using Danish oil) and letting the glue dry for over 24 hours. When I tried to break the joint, I found that the strength was not very robust, plus the point of seperation was between the glue and the Danish oil. Therefore, I concluded to do as you have, ie. glue the frames to the keel (carefully) first and apply the finish later. I should note that the Danish oil sample had been aged for at least a month, prior to applying the glue and clamping them. Second question- Regarding frame #32. You indicated that the "height" of it's upper flat edge (where the deck lays) should be to the lower side of the decking. In order to determine this, we need to know what the deck thickness is to be, or another reference dimension, ie, to the keel etc. ? Sorry if I missed it? Could you please elaborate on this a little more. Thanks for your continued assistance. | ||
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| Gene_Bodnar |
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| Gene_Bodnar Registered Member #3 Joined: Sun Jun 15 2008, 11:43AMPosts: 287 | Hello longboat, You're better off applying any finish AFTER you've glued the frames in place because, as you said, the strength of the joint won't be very robust. There is no glue that adheres very well to any kind of finish, including stain or oil. Of course, you could apply the finish one frame at a time, but make sure you leave the notch free of any of the finish, then glue it to an unfinished keel. The deck will be 1/16" thick. Take this measurement into account on Frame 32. Hope this answers your questions. Gene | ||
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| longboat |
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| Registered Member #59 Joined: Mon Aug 18 2008, 04:02PMPosts: 34 | Hi Gene, Just thought that I would let you know that I am still pounding away at building the Eagle. You sure get a different respect for building this, once you get into the actual process. Had a few hick-up getting all the frames in place, but in general very pleased. I'm just starting the cant frames; that should be a challenge. I wanted to thank you for doing such a Great job in formating and explaining this build. Regards, Jerry | ||
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| Gene_Bodnar |
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| Gene_Bodnar Registered Member #3 Joined: Sun Jun 15 2008, 11:43AMPosts: 287 | Thank you, Jerry. It's been my pleasure to present such a project in so much detail. I'm happy to see that you're enjoying the build. The cant frames do present a bit of a challenge, but just take your time and I'm sure you'll end up with a model you'll be proud of. Until the next project, Gene | ||
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